A schnapps and bread moment with … Georg Öfferl and Lukas Uhl (Bäckerei Öfferl)
Ever since our philosophy has made its way around the industry a little, we've been receiving enquiries from businesses for a Collaboration, which we have in some cases admired for years. In our new series "Over a Glass with …"we would like to give you a glimpse into conversations with our partners and friends. We'll briefly share what we produce for each company and what connects us with them.
This time we're looking forward to the conversation with Georg Öfferl and Lukas Uhl from the Bäckerei Öfferl. We have been supplying various spirits for refining doughs for quite some time now, and ever since we started running our own malting house, our malthas also become an important flavour contributor to the specialities of Bäckerei Öfferl.
Farthofer: You source malt from us. How did you come across us, and what do you use the malt for?
Uhl: We use the grain malt for our Ancient Grain Wholegrain Bread "Ulrich Urkorn" and for our Bio Weinbergspitz. Since we'd already been getting alcohol from you for adding to our doughs for quite a while — first rum, then lemon liqueur — we got to talking about malt at some point. And the fact that you use Schlägler Roggenkorn, an ancient grain variety for it won us over completely.
Farthofer: Since autumn 2019 you've had a branch in the heart of Vienna. Do city dwellers have different tastes in bread from people in the countryside — how do the preferences differ?
Uhl: It's very similar, actually. In the countryside old traditions are celebrated more — a good example is our Martinihörndl in November or our Osterhase aus Kipferlteig.
Öfferl: Our range is the same everywhere. Except for the Dampfofenbrot, which is an elongated loaf with a softer crust — people in our home village of Gaubitsch are very fond of it. In the Weinviertel we have certain traditions, for example "Striezelposchen".
Farthofer: What replaces the All Saints' Day bread at Easter? Easter bunny or Pinze? What is it like at your place?
Öfferl:Opinions are divided on that. Our Easter bunny has had a fresh makeover and wins people over with a croissant-style dough, with its flower dusted in pearl sugar. Our Bio Easter Pinzen are made from a brioche dough. After the Lenten fast, you don't necessarily have to choose just one.
Farthofer:Which grain variety do you think is greatly underrated?
Uhl:(thinks it over) I think every grain varietyhas its positive qualitiesIt really depends on what you're after — you have to try to coax out the very best in it.
Öfferl:But something we do put a lot of faith in isancient grains. Simply because it tastes better andgentler on the soil, more robust and resilient in the field and no hybrids are used that I can no longer use after 1 or 2 years – we don't need lab-grown grain. I'm a fan of Schlägler rye or Capo wheat, einkorn, emmer and Waldstaude. Even if the yields are usually lower, they have other advantages.
Farthofer: Is the master craftsman requirement for opening your own bakery still appropriate?
Öfferl: In my view, there are home bakers who bake bread just as well asbake bread trained bakers – or better. (laughs) Lukas and I are alsocareer changers, we picked everything up in a year with no prior knowledge and are now drawing our own conclusions from it. Really, it should be about making it easier to get into bread baking – you have to have a head for business anyway if the operation is going to work. There's "Die Brotpuristen", for example, who show that you can be successful as a career changer with a special permit.Austria needs creative and innovative minds.
Uhl: In the Master School you also learn many things and techniques that you need in everyday life.
Farthofer: When Josef spends a whole day working in the Malzwelt, his feet hurt the most. How is it for you bakers? Where does it hurt the most?
Uhl: For me it's also my feet and hands. And all the spots where you burn yourself on the oven. (laughs)
Öfferl: Back pain was the main thing. I'm not on my feet all day anymore in the bakery. But the same repetitive movements – the weighing, bending, and stretching – really take their toll. Especially when you've pinched a nerve and just keep going with pain cream because there's so much to do. In my opinion, the craft should look different in 20 years. The work needs to be made easier so that bakers can stay fit. Because only when they're not exhausted do they know when to do what and which dough is ready to go into the oven.
Farthofer: What do you think it takes for baker apprentices to become the next generation of apprentices with cool tattoos – just like chefs?
Öfferl: The way we run things, it could work. Day shifts only and a five-day week. Our apprentices know we'll keep them on, and especially out here in the countryside, that matters a lot. Working nights just isn't that sexy, and I'm not a fan of it either – but then again, chefs have to work weekends too. I think demand for butchers, bakers, and cooks will rise, because there are hardly any left. But then you also need to pay accordingly. I think we're pretty fair on that front.
Uhl: Our apprentices should also be proud of what they do and proud of what the business stands for.
Farthofer: Georg, what does Lukas do better than you? Lukas, what does Georg do better?
Uhl: Georg is more creative, without a doubt. And he's really good at product development. And at playing football. (laughs)
Öfferl: Lukas is brilliant at organising and structuring things – and I'm no better at football either! He's incredibly diplomatic in discussions and always makes sure everyone's happy. In a family business that's not always easy. Our cousin Sandra is a wonderful complement to us as well – we make a great trio.
Farthofer: Both our businesses are based in Niederösterreich. What does the region do really well for businesses, and where would you like to see more support?
Öfferl: We grew up here, and that creates a bond – our families are here and our friends, and everyone pulls together when it counts. That's what matters most! Keeping local jobs in the area is important to me. There's actually more support from the regional government right now than ever before, and interest rates have never been this low either. (laughs). Nobody hands you anything in life for free – even if a lot of people think they will – you have to earn it.
Farthofer: Like us, you also come from a village of just over 1,000 people. While success is celebrated elsewhere, it can still be a tough crowd at home. What was the greatest compliment you received from someone in your own village?
Öfferl: A prophet is never recognised in his own land. But things have changed – by now Recognitionthere. I don't think the locals are aware of and follow everything we do. But the fact that they come in to shop – from pensioners to mothers and children – to pick up a croissant or a cheese stick, that's the best compliment. You can be pretty happy with that.
Thank you so much for the conversation!
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